Having my bones thrown ...
Its been a tough few months for me recently with lots of upheaval ... and the last few weeks have been especially rather hectic - planning my departure from SA, almost getting chucked out of my house by an evil landlady (and then leaving anyway), killing my liver with the Harvard/KSG boys in Namibia ... and the list goes on ...
If i'd been in London or in Boston ... i'd have booked myself into a spa, had a massage ... perhaps drunk a few bottles of wine ... well .. i've done a lot of that here too ... but i figured ... since i didn't have a normal doctor here in Cape Town (and yes - i know that i am one ... but i knew i didn't have an infectious disease ....) .... i would go to an African doctor - a Sangoma ....
Now Sangomas have a bad rep in the HIV NGO community ... most of our patients consult traditional healers before they seek a medical opinion ... and often mix muti (essentially plant and animal bits) with their ARVs ... which makes an awful mess as you can imagine .... and we "normal" doctors have been guilty of demonising their efforts and role in the fight against AIDS ...
Added to that several have been convicted recently of kidnapping and killing children for various essential components of witches brew ..... and so .... i chickened out a bit of the whole authentic experience ... and found myself a white sangoma instead .... i claimed so that language wouldn't be a problem and a white healer would explain any cultural differences to me .... but really it was so that i didn't have to sacrifice a goat or drink ground up baby bits ....
Julia the Sangoma - couldn't have been nicer .... true she did have her special healing hut (or Ndumba) and she did wear the traditional gall bladder of the goat that was sacrificed at her initiation ceremony .... but she explained everything fabulously .... and was suitably understanding about my being an allopathic doctor ....
So we sat on an animal hide (? goat) mat .... sent out smoke to honour our ancestors .... and she threw my bones .... interpreted my dreams (even though to be fair i didn't remember any) ... and told me about my life ..... i can't tell you what she actually said - thats between me and my ancestors apparently - but she gave me some very sound advice as well as lots of very african perspectives on very western woes .... and then she grated, sieved, chopped and chanted over some muti to help me .... just to reassure any squeamish ones amongst you - all in the form of baths .... with no blood no sacrifice no animals (at least none that i could see moving) and certainly no human bits ....
I tried the first treatment today .... it looked a bit like a science experiment ... and smelt - well - like a biology experiment .... so am keeping my fingers crossed that nothing too untoward happens .... the second treatment to be taken at the full moon is a protective spell ... i may be a crass sceptical western doctor .... but i kind of like the idea that i have African spirits watching over me too ....